Tag Archives: Retinoid

Vitamin A Derivatives That Improve Skin Texture, Tone, and Color

As is the case with many of the best discoveries, the use of vitamin A as a wrinkle control agent happened largely by accident. It all began in the laboratories of Dr. Albert Kligman in the 1960’s when the controversial dermatologist began to experiment on prisoners with a vitamin A derivative called tretinoin as an acne treatment. Imagine the delight of the incarcerated men to discover not only the disappearance of their acne, but a noticeable decrease in wrinkles and smoother skin tones!

Woman applying vitamin A on her skin

Vitamin A and its derivatives have often been referred to as the “gold standard of skin care,” a paragon of excellence against which all other skin care products can be measured. If you are thinking of incorporating some vitamin A into your routine, here are some things you may want to know.

Retinoids
Retinoids are also known as the generic term for tretinoin, retin-A, or differin, and are available only by prescription. They are absorbed directly into the skin cells which makes them highly effective against hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and acne.

The downside of this miracle cream is its likelihood to cause skin irritation. Retinoids are often associated with redness and peeling and require adjustment to the dosage to combat these side effects. The key with these products is keeping the applied amount to a minimum. A pea-sized amount should be enough for the whole face, and a larger quantity is unnecessary.

Retinol
Retinol is vitamin A in its pure form and is an over the counter alternative to harsher retinoids. While the conversion to retinoic acid will decrease the potency of the retinol, it should still be effective enough to bring noticeable results. Although retinol may trigger minor irritation, side effects should generally subside over time as the skin grows more accustomed to the treatment.

Retinyl Palmitate
This combination of retinol and palmitic acid is one of the less effective vitamin A derivatives. While it does convert to retinoic acid, the process often takes so long that by the time it is completed, the product has lost most of its ability to affect the DNA of the cell. As a result, you would need a very high concentration of retinal palmitate to have significant effect, and most cosmetic companies who use it as a source of vitamin A usually do not put enough of it in their serums and creams to make a difference.
The bottom line: If retinyl palmitate is not combined with other vitamin A derivatives, it is almost useless.

Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is a potent over the counter form of vitamin A which is commonly perceived to be the closest to retinoic acid without the irritating side effects. However, it is important to take note of content in your product. In order to be effective, a retinaldehyde concentration of 0.05% to 0.1% needs to be present. This is the equivalent of a 0.025 tretinoin. The biggest side effect of retinaldehyde will be the lightening of your purse. Most skin care products containing substantial amounts of the ingredient will be on the high-end side in price, so be prepared to pay for quality.

Other Advice
Be aware that vitamin A is not stable and tends to lose potency when it interacts with sunlight. Creams and serums are therefore best applied at night. Do not use a cleanser with retinoids, as the retinoids depend on contact with skin to achieve full benefit and should not be washed away. When purchasing retinoids, look for packaging that minimizes exposure to air and light which can affect the stability of the vitamin.

Let us know your choice when it comes to choosing Vitamin A derivatives. Which ones work best for you?

Top Anti-Aging Skin Care Ingredients for 2015 – Vine Vera Reviews

Youth, and the importance of it, is an everyday all-day presence in our lives. From glossy magazine ads to the impossibly wrinkle-free skin of actors and actresses, we are constantly bombarded with images of perfect, glowing, youthful skin. And of course, much of the time the message is heard loud and clear and we seek out our own potions, pills and powders that promise us eternal youth. While we all know that we can’t turn back time and there isn’t a fountain of youth for us to bathe in, there are skin care ingredients that can dramatically help aging skin look, and feel more youthful. Vine Vera has rounded up the top anti-aging skin care ingredients for 2015 for you to check out.

Woman taking a bath with milk in a spa.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are a common ingredient among cosmetic products and there is a good reason for this. AHAs work best for people with normal to dry skin and these chemical compounds help to bind moisture, increase collagen production and improve the overall texture of skin. The most frequently used AHAs for cosmetic purposes are:

AHAs are also used in cosmetic or dermatology offices for chemical peels. When used in proper concentrations, there are often very few side effects. However, it is important to note that a chemical peel, administered by a dermatologist, that has the desired level of alpha hydroxy acids will result in severe side effects such as blisters, burning or discoloration. The good news is that these side effects are temporary and typically disappear within 24 to 48 hours.

Woman shocked to see acne on her cheeks in the mirror.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Beta hydroxy acid is an organic compound that is best suited for those with combination to oily skin types. This compound is closely related to alpha hydroxy acids:  they are separated  by one carbon atom. Beta hydroxy acids for cosmetic purposes refer to salicylic acid, which is most commonly used to treat acne.

Woman scratching her arm because of eczema.

Fulvic Acid
Fulvic acid not only helps hydrate the skin (skin becomes less able to hold moisture the older we get) but it also is an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial. This skin care ingredient already has a great reputation in Australia and is used to treat skin conditions such as skin dryness, redness and inflammation, psoriasis and eczema. One of the most exciting properties of fulvic acid is that it is an incredibly potent free-radical destroyer, which can help with signs of aging.

Diagram of a Vitamin A molecule

Stabilized Retinoids
Retinoids have been used for their anti-aging benefits for years. There are decades of clinical research that document their effectiveness as an anti-aging powerhouse. Retinoids help increase cell turnover to help fight wrinkles and smooth the appearance of the skin, fade sun spots or discoloration and build collagen. The stabiliztion of ingredients in skincare is important because it helps the ingredients to last significantly longer. Thus, stabilized retinoids last longer in their particular skin care formulation meaning that you receive the benefits for a longer period of time.

These skin care ingredients are being touted by experts for their ability to help reduce the visible signs of aging as well as other skin imperfections. Other things that you can do to help the appearance of your skin include adopting a healthier diet, exercise regularly and drink more water. Skin care continues to advance and provide better results in the way of anti-aging and at a faster rate. Make use of the skin care ingredients that benefit your skin type to begin seeing younger, more supple looking skin.